Need a wall treatment idea that adds character and personality to your home? A board and batten wall treatment is a great option. You can create this custom wall treatment on a full wall or half wall known as wainscoting. Board and batten walls in the bedroom are timeless and classic.
I installed a board and batten wall treatment in my kids’ bedroom. It’s holding up well. I’m loving it every time I enter their room.
The impact in my kids’ room is AMAZING!! This is definitely a home project a beginner can tackle themselves with minimal power tools.

Here is how to install this DIY board and batten wall treatment in any space in your home and some great tips that will help you along the way.
The Before


This post contains affiliate links.
Click here to read my full disclosure policy
MATERIALS
4′ x 8′ 5mm plywood sheets
1×4 primed boards
1×6 primed boards
1×2 primed boards
Primed Cove Pine Molding
Wood Glue
Paintable Caulk
Spackle
Wood Filler
Liquid Nails
Outlet Extender
Benjamin Moore Advance – Stain Finish
Paint color of your choice
TOOLS
1 1/4″ brad nails
2″ brad nails
Miter saw
Circular saw
Ryobi Brad nail gun (a cordless is best)
Jigsaw
Leveler
Pencil
Screwdriver
Pry bar
Measurement tape
Step by Step Tutorial
Step 1 – Plan out your design
A good rule of thumb is that for a half wall board and batten wall treatment in the bedroom, it should be at about a third or more of the height of the room. This will be visually pleasing to the eyes.
Our kids’ bedroom ceiling is 10 ft tall and I designed the board and batten at approx 57 inches, including the top and bottom boards.
Refer to the layout below for details.
I used 4ft x 8ft thin plywood sheets to cover up the textured walls for a smooth surface. Another great option to cover textured walls is this hardboard panel board, I used in our primary bedroom. This will enhance the final look of the board and batten accent wall.
Board and Batten Wall Layout

Tips: Finalize the board and batten accent wall layout with estimated measurements to determine the exact materials you need.
Mistakes To Avoid
I cut my plywood sheets 16 inches wide because I planned to install the vertical boards on each stud. Later, I decided to install the vertical boards, 28-32 inches apart.
Although my plywood sheets were already cut 16 inches wide, I had to determine how to hide as many seams as possible. I shared more on how I accomplished it below.
To avoid this mistake, I suggest using painter’s tape to lay out your design on the wall. This way you can adjust it and finalize all measurements before cutting the materials.
Step 2 – Locate Studs
Use a stud finder to locate the studs and mark them with a chalk line


Step 3 – Remove Existing Baseboards
If your existing baseboards are not the same thickness as the vertical boards, you need to remove your existing baseboards using a pry bar. This pry bar is my favorite!
Replacing your baseboards allows for a clean and professional finish.

Step 4 – Install New Baseboards
Install a 1×6 primed flat board using a brad nail gun and 2” nails, on each wall at the studs. Use a leveler to make sure your boards are installed level.
At the corners, where the boards meet the wall, miter the boards at 45 degrees for a tight fit.
Tips: Caulk the seams at the miter joint to reduce the amount of caulking at the end of the project.


Step 5 – Install Horizontal Boards
Install 1×4 primed flat boards at your desired height.



Use a leveler to keep boards straight and leveled on all walls. Miter cut the trim boards for corners at 45 degrees.

Step 6 – Install Board Trim Details
Install 1×2 primed flat boards on top of the 1×4 boards. For a traditional design, add a decorative primed cove moulding beneath the 1×2 boards.

Step 7 – Measure And Cut Plywood Sheets
Cover up any textured walls between the top and bottom boards.
Tips: Roughly have your sheets cut down at the home improvement store for easy transport.
At home, I cut down to my desired dimension using a circular saw. A jigsaw can also be used to cut sheets because the cuts do not have to be perfectly straight. You will cover the seams with vertical boards.

To work around outlets on the wall, cut the outlet opening on the plywood sheet, using a jigsaw.
Use an outlet extender for a flush look on your board and batten wall treatment, especially if the outlet opening is located on either the horizontal boards and/or vertical boards.

For light switches that fall on the top boards, cut an opening on the board, using a jigsaw. Also, use an outlet extender for a flush look.


If your light switches are not fully enclosed at the top board area, you will need to cut an additional wood piece to frame out the switch.

Step 8 – Install Sheets
Arrange your plywood sheets to visualize how they will look on the walls.
Apply liquid nails on the back of your plywood sheets and nail onto the wall at a 30-degree angle to fully secure it.

Tips: To avoid damage to the walls, you can skip the step to use construction adhesive or liquid nails. Instead nail the sheets at 30 degrees to secure the sheets in place.


Step 9 – Cut vertical boards and Install
Arrange vertical boards using painter’s tape before nailing them down

I used paint tape to hold the vertical boards in place to confirm spacing before nailing them onto the wall. Not every board will be placed at an equal distance between each other.
However, make sure the vertical battens look balanced on the walls.


Tips: The vertical boards should be nailed at 30 degrees onto the studs, for a secured attachment.
Step 10 – Prep For Paint
Fill in all nail holes with spackle or wood filler.
I used spackle to fill all exposed seams. Then sand down when the spackle is completely dried for a smooth surface.
Clean up dust with a tack cloth.

Step 11 – Caulk and Caulk…
Begin caulking gaps to hide imperfections. This step takes a while but it will be worth it when completed.

Step 12 – Protect Wall And Floors
Apply painter’s tape to avoid paint on other areas on your walls and floors. Then prime the sheets.



Step 13 – Paint Paint Paint
Paint the board and batten wall treatment with your choice of paint color using a paintbrush, paint roller, or a paint sprayer (if possible for a smother finish)
I painted our wall treatment with Benjamin Moore Chantilly’s Lace. This white paint has little or no undertones.

Step 14 – Your Board And Batten Bedroom
Allow the board and batten wall treatment to dry, admire and style your space.



Would You Create This Bedroom Board And Batten Wall Treatment In Your Home?
Let me know in the comment below what you think about this board and batten wall treatment and if you would install it in your home.
Happy DIY-ing!
xo, Gbeke
Other Wall Treatments You’ll Love:
PLAID DESIGN MASTER BEDROOM ACCENT WALL
It looks great! I’m curious, about what size the cove molding is? We are currently doing the same project. Our top ledge is 1 x 2 which is actually 1.5 wide. The cove at the stores is 11/16 which is too wide to fit under the ledge. The special order cove, is 1/2 inch but it looks too whimpy. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
I love yout project, very good details. If it is ok, I will give your credits then share it @ http://www.boardandbattensiding.org
Waiting for your answer on this comment
Thank you so much! No problem.
I have read instructions to DIY board and batten on about 58 blogs and I can honestly say yours is the most detailed and clear I have seen. Can astic! I’m so glad you appeared in my feed! Thanks for sharing
Is it possible to keep the existing baseboards when doing a board and batten install?
If the baseboards are thick as the vertical boards for your board and batten then keep it. Otherwise, I will advise you remove the existing baseboards. Hope this helps